Mai Perso - Travel adventures
Uyuni to San Salvador de Jujuy – Day 6
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We are leaving the salt lakes and heading back to the border, this time planning to cross from Bolivia to Argentina mid day. We have 600km route planned for the day, starting with 200km dirt, the Argentinian border at the midpoint and a smooth ride to our destination in Jujuy.
The 200km of dirt was great. fun long stretches of packed dirt road, culminating with a beautiful canyon similar to the Sedona area with red rock and a river flowing next to us. The river bed was green probably from a Copper ore that was flowing in it. The last 20kn of the ride was particularly spectacular. The group spread out a bit as we were enjoying the mountainous road and the views. Once again, we had several fun water crossings and some narrow passages, additionally challenging due to the trucks and busses that were sharing the dirt road with us. We were hundreds of miles from the famous Death road in La Paz, but at times, this route felt pretty deadly to us… Regardless, we had a blast. we gathered at the foot of the mountain, breaking under 10,000ft altitude for the first time since we got on the bikes in Ollantayatambo a week ago. Getting on paved road after 200km of dirt felt good even though the morning was once again an amazing combination of good riding terrain and amazing views.
Off we go to the Argentinian border. Nacho described it as an easy pass, since the bikes were going back into Argentina. Famous last words…
Apparently, an oil truckers strike closed all neighboring border crossings, funneling all traffic through the crossing we were at. The border turned circus, was great source for jokes at this point. An estimated crossing of 30-45 minutes, was well into the fourth hour before we cleared both Argentinian and Bolivian customer and passport control.
The team was getting anxious as we were heading for a second long trip down the mountain through the night. Fortunately as we were in lower elevation, the temperatures were more amicable and road conditions in Argentina much better then in Bolivia. Still, as dark settled, our speed was reduced and the hotel seamed more elusive as the hours went by.
The gas stations we stopped at were empty and at some point we had to put a gallon of gas in aech bike from a reserve tank we had, since we all were running on empty. That was the second time the border truckers strike hit us in one day. At around 11pm, we rolled into the hotel. Showered and went down for drinks and dinner. Dinner was remarkable. We had flakey tamales with beef and a slightly hot chimichurri sauce, followed by Goat ribs and shanks in the oven. Crunchy, luscious, yummy Argentinian cuisine. (More about the food on the trip, in dedicated future posts)
By 1am we went back to our rooms for a short night sleep. Tomorrow we have the longest and last day of riding for this trip, heading to Cordoba.
Tags: Route 5
Potosi to Uyuni – Day 5
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A lazy start following an eventful ride on day 4, and what looks like a promising ride. Nacho provided guidance which we all learned to take with a grain of salt… The day will be all pavement other then parts of the road that are under construction, and the last 60 km as we reach our destination for the night. All in all it’s a 235km ride, (apx. 150 mi.).
So… how did it pan out? well we started the ride with a grand tour of the Potosi city dump. Our first water crossing was a local sewage. We then picked up the road that created us with a well paved series of twistys and wonderful scenery. As we were increasing the distance from Potosi deeper into the high mountains, the first “Under construction” sections started showing up. These sections turned at some point to an “under construction first road stretching for about 100km.
Well… that’s when the magic of the BMW 1200GS hits you. Just as much as we were having fun on the paved road, we were now riding an uber fun dirt road, with packed sand, water crossings, mud, gravel, you name it, we had it. And it was just an endless source of fun. Yesterday’s misery turned into one of the best road and off road riding days in our collective recent memory. Not too short, not too long and a combo of all terrains desired by a GS rider.
During a lunch break, we met two Israeli 800GS rtiders making their way to Ushuaia, who waited for us at the next water crossing to get a first hand demo of how to handle water on a GS. Our team has handled the crossing flawlessly, giving them the demo they were looking for.
At the end of the road, after crossing thorough the town of Uyuni on the way to the salt lakes, we ended the afternoon at our next stop at the Salt Hotel “Luna Salada”.
The hotel was the kind of experience you have at the Ice hotel or one of those funky places around the globe. The building is made from Salt bricks, The floor is covered with rough grains of salt, and a smoked salt smell hangs in the dirt from the Salt structured fireplaces along the corridors.
Out the panoramic windows, The moon was reflected in the salt plains that were now all water due to the rains that poured here in the past couple of weeks. A dramatic picture perfect view.
Pisco Sours, Cusquena beers, Gin & Tonics, shower, dinner… Life is good!
Tags: Bolivia, Dirt road riding, Potosi, Salt Hotel, Uyuni
Cusco to Puno and the beautiful Lake Titicaca – Day 3
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The route to Puno, a small town on the banks of Lake Titicaca, is set to be a relaxed ride of roughly 400 km (250 mi.) mostly on paved roads and beautiful mountain views. We started the day with a slight rain that cleared later to a sunny and cold day, as we were climbing up in elevation.
White snow dusted mountain ranges and dramatic cloudy sky kept the ride once again breath-taking. We were on a roll to get to Puno by lunch, since we had a surprise tour for the group on Lake Titicaca and a visit to the Floating Reed islands on the lake. On the way, we have crossed Juliaca, later renamed by Cliff as “Shit City”, which provided us with some of the more challenging dirt road riding experience of the trip to date. The town was a traffic mess, dirt, potholes and mud puddles in the streets, and chaos like nobody business. The local gas stations were actually a lady sitting at a cross-road, with 4 or 5 plastic containers and a funnel. If you were lucky, they had a piece of filthy cloth in the funnel to filter the dirt out of the gasoline. We managed to avoid using their services and opted for a gas station along the way several miles out-of-town.
Once in Puno, a quick-lunch and on to the boat that took us to the floating islands. The captain’s son, a 9 year old boy was driving the boat. We got a full tourist intro to the islands and were shown around by one of the families that lives on an island. We did the obligatory trip in a reed boat and even got to experience rowing it.
It was great! the people were wonderful and it is something we will probably will not have an opportunity to experience anytime soon.
We had dinner at the hotel with Lama stew, Lama Carpaccio, grilled fish and other local delicacies and went to bed early. Tomorrow, day 4, is an 800 km day (500 mi) with a boarder crossing from Peru to Bolivia. We also had prediction for rain. Talking about a perfect storm…
Cusco and the Sacred Valley – Day 2
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The group was a team by now. For Safta and myself it was great since another couple was riding two up and some of the people we enjoy riding with most, where with us on this biking adventure through the Andean mountain range.
The trip to Cusco took us around the Sacred Valley, an agricultural testing ground of the Incas and the salt pools of Moray. It felt good being on the bike again. I like hiking but having a hundred HP taking you around this magical landscape, is un comparable experience. The scenery, weather, temperature and company were all perfect.ancient cultures mixing with people who are moving. slowly to the 21st century. Still working the
And with animals and wooden plows, eating ancient verticals of potatoes and drinking Chicha, a fermented corn potion.
We did about 300km that day, had a fun dirt road with a few water crossings, some gravel, long packed dirt and windy paved roads. We passed through villages with bulls blocking our way, cut slowly through herds of sheep and goats and were greeted by small chubby local matriarchs with white top hats and colorful robes made of Lama or Alpaca wool. It was the perfect way to get warmed up. A bit of everything, and once again accompanied with stunning views and dramatic sky’s. It actually looked like those cheesy posters of the Peruvian ministry of tourism.
We stopped for lunch in a local restaurant. A mother with a 9 month old baby on her back, served us a pork stew with steamed corn on the cob and sweet purple onion and fresh mint leaves (Naana) salad. The meat was a bit dry but the whole meal tasted fantastic. We were hungry and it all fit well together. nacho introduced us to Inca Cola, a local favorite that looks toxic with a fluorescent color and tons of sugar. Three 6-8 year olds were playing naked in a little stream at the back of the restaurant, chasing a miserable family pet duck, spraying it with water from empty Coke bottles. The smell of the mint, the water, the stew and the wood fire it was cooking on was the memory of the lunch. The blaring soap opera playing on an old TV in the corner, completed the scenery. Life is good! Actually, life is great. Like rolled into Cusco late afternoon and found our way to the hotel, am old colonial house turned modern charming hotel. Greeted by a friendly staff we went to our rooms and changed. Everybody was planning on going to check out the center of Cusco but by the time I was out of the room, a drizzle was washing the streets of town and the warm bed and an afternoon nap was very attractive. The ride, the impressions, fresh thin air and the events leading to the trip all brought us all to the same conclusion.
Later afternoon, I made my way to the city center. I wasn’t in love with Cusco. It is restored and in a beautiful condition.
Packed with tourists, Israeli advertisements for Showarma grills and trips on ATVs, and Thai Girls promoting massageS with happy endings…
A well trained 10 year old girl named Sara was harassing me and managed to sell me a local straw doll that was probably imported from China. I took the mandatory panoramic photos, checked the box on Cusco and strolled through the small ally’s back to the hotel.
Lima, Peru Day -1
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Lima took us by surprise. We checked into the Westin, welcomed as usual with a very friendly local staff. Nacho and Dario “Abuelito”, met us in the lobby for review of the logistics and an innogural round of Pisco Sours.
An hour later we took off joined by Paula, an Argentinian friend of Nacho who lives in Lima.
Like the dumb traveler I can sometimes be (read my “Camels in Japan” blog post for reference), I expected Lima to be a third word town like many we have seen in Chile, Ecuador and other countries in South America. The town instead was more like Buenos Aires. Strewn with glorious Spanish architecture, mixed with modern and well maintained modern buildings and well invested infrastructure. You could definitely see that parts of this emended city suffer poorer lot, but we made our way from great restaurant to a better club to a great late night bar.
Walked down to a path overlooking the beach and mingled with a young cosmopolitan crowed.
The food was a combination of Peruvian and Asian cuisine.
The two highlights were “La Mar” the local lunch establishment owned by Peru’s own, world renowned Chef Gaston Acurio. The second is Ayahuasca, a Spanish villa turned Bar / Club. We had a blast and enjoyed every minute of it.
Drinking Piscos and chatting and finally made it back to the heavenly bed at 3am.
Tags: ayahuasca, Chef Gaston Acurio, La Mar, Lima, Pisco sour
Cusco brings back old memories
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Being harassed by Sara, a 10 year old girl in tha main plaza in Cusco and ended buying a peruvian doll of a woman carrying a baby. Bright orange colors. Michi will like her. Got some friendship bracelet to go with it. Cusco reminds me of my Dad. He visited Peru ages ago and held a Slides evening to show and tell us about Machu Picchu and Cusco.
We got on the bikes this morning after a great day in Machu Picchu yesterday. The trip is amazing even though the tempo is slower then we usually do. We have all been tired and ate happy with some time for leisurely sightseeing. The ride this morning was great. Twisters, dirt, puddles and a tame water crossing and a visit to an Inca agricultural site with circular terraces, followed. Y a natural Salt production valley.
I let myself get lost in Cusco but started heading back to the hotel since the temperature is dropping rapidly since the sun set. It’s probably mid 20s now. I can’t claim I have seen the town bit fro
Wandering around for a couple of hours, it does not get on my favorite list. Very touristic and signs in Hebrew every three stores. Muchileros… We will be leaving here tomorrow morning and I doubt that I’ll be back here anytime soon. Curious to hear the verdict of the group.
Getting the Tzchachkes
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Finishing touch on the giveaways and finally getting ready to pack our own gear. We have been stacking the Warm / Cold riding gear and under armor layers, the GPS is ready and loaded and so is the SPOT, first aid kit, bike repairs, iPod, iPad, MackBook and other Apple gadgets we can no longer do with out. There Contour Helmet Cam that this time around is expected to capture action in the making, additional external hard drive and that’s a wrap for electronics. Bug replant, Sun screen and tylanol seal the list. Getting on the plain to Lima tomorrow evening. Starting to count down in hours not days. That’s when you know it’s really close.
Tags: 1200GS BMW, Argentina, Bolivia, Machu Picchu, Peru, travel adventures
Say what?
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Pachacuti had two sons. His hair apparent was called Tupac. Yes like the rapper Tupac . Who knew…
Tags: Dakar 2012, Macho Picchu, Peru, the morning after
Pachacuti the Machu Picchu Mayan Emperor
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“I was born as a lily in the garden, and like the lily I grew, as my age advanced / I became old and had to die, and so I withered and died.”
This poem was attributed to Pachacuti, the Mayan emperor who has built Machu Picchu
Adventure foreplay
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The excitement is building up with me and the team, towards the upcoming trip to the Andes.
It’s the first time for me, traveling almost exclusively at high altitude, ranging between 12k and 17k ft. There will be little adjustment time. We will get on the bikes the day after we land and be on our way. The only buffer is that we can decide how rough we want to do the first few days, as there are alternative paved or hard surface dirt roads we can take.
We have also set ourselves the goal of using as much as possible local facilities and avoiding Western chains. This in order to soak the local culture and experience the adventure through the eyes of the local folks. We tend to naturally do it when we travel just the two of us or with the kids, but be less conscious of it when traveling with a larger group.
We are now 28 days from meeting with the group in Lima Peru. The local support crew will be there a couple of days early, to pick up the bikes from the Lima BMW dealer, where they will be serviced and prepared for our trip.
The group is a known entity. We have traveled together before and know each other’s quirkiness and greatness. That surely takes some of the uncertainty away. You know it’s a team you can count on, have fun with, and have them on your memory photos to prove it.
Issa is taking care of the GPS maps for the group, we are working on some funky tchotchkes (or whichever way you spell it…) for the team and starting to gather our own gear. Electronics for us and the team, riding gear, SPOT, GPS, Clothes, 5hr energy shots, insurance, visas….
I love that phase. Reading about the destination, anticipating the views, smells, challenges and making mental notes of all the plan B, C, and D for any possible scenario we may encounter.
I’ve been there dozens of times before, and it still gets my adrenaline pumping into the system.
28 days and counting…
Mai Perso - Travel adventures 